“… Calm morning seas mean we’re lucky enough to reach Vis Island, a rugged rock rising dramatically from the water. The strategically located westernmost of Croatia’s islands — and the closest to Italy — has experienced a complex history of being at the center of many conflicts, including World War II, when it was the wartime base of future Yugoslavian President Josip Broz Tito. The island was closed to tourists until 1989 and retains a wild, remote mountain feel. Hills are plentiful, and while they require pushing your quads, they also present great views of distant bays, islands and small crescent pebble beaches far below.

We roller-coaster the length of Vis Island toward the idyllic port of Komiza, where we refuel on Italian-caliber gourmet pizza and Croatian lager at a lively foreshore spot. After lunch, a brutally steep climb (it is! – Ed) — or perhaps it was lunch that made it feel that way — and a long downhill take us back to Vis Town, where we started out that morning. Along the way, our guide, Sakis Mits, points out wartime caves used for everything from military hospitals to barracks. One of the tunnels, on the shoreline of Rogacic Bay, hid ships and submarines and was featured in the James Bond movie “The World Is Not Enough.”

That evening, just outside Vis Town, we sample Antonio Lipanovic’s full-bodied reds and award-winning whites, which the towering winemaker, clad in a Dr. House T-shirt, creates in one of those tunnels. Lipanovic converted the site, a former military installation, into a modern winery and naturally cooled cellar with a tasting room, complete with a portrait of local hero Tito. …”

So says Margo Pfeiff of San Francisco Chronicle when she visited the Dalmatian islands this year.

Our agent Vis Special offers cycle tours (self-guided by GPS or with guide) and many other tours of this unspoiled, historic, beautiful island as well as providing us with a brilliant service as agent for our house.